7/6 Bukhara
Finally arrived back in Bukhara and reunited with my bike. It was a relief to see that my bike was in exactly the same place as I left it in the guesthouse.
I spent a day exploring Bukhara before cycling again. I figured, more rest days never hurt. Especially after the stomach pains in the desert, a little more TLC is good for the mind and soul! There’s nothing more important than taking care of yourself when you’re traveling alone on a bicycle across a long way.
Bukhara was different from Khiva and Samarkand, in that it had more open spaces where people just hang out. The result is a very chill, relaxing atmosphere. In the evenings when the temperature is comfortable, the town is bustling with people and families.
The other notable point about Bukhara is the number of medrassas (schools) here. I imagine back in the day it must’ve been like Boston, so many students around!
kids playing football in the streets
Uzbek style hot-dog. inside there’s fresh cucumbers, carrots, pickles, mayo and tomato sauce (that tastes very different from ketchup). also the bread is toasted. sometimes the bread is pita, and other times its a regular bun.
large open spaces with canals and fountains. statue of man on donkey is Hoja Nasruddin, famous folklore character
covered bazaars. this used to be the center of commerce on the Silk Road
inside a student room in the medrassa
medrassa students, back in the day
inside Abul Aziz Khan medrassas–unrestored decorations
the Mir-i-Arab medrassa is still a school today
around Bukhara and the Kalon Minaret
the beautiful Kalon mosque from the 16th century
bugs bunny carpets at the bazaar
the Ark, where the Khan (king) used to live
writing postcards at the park at sunset————————————–
7/8 Bukhara –> camp in abandoned building
The next morning I had a long, wonderful conversation at breakfast with Elke, a German woman from Hamburg. She was travelling for 3 weeks around Uzbekistan.
As I was running errands before leaving town, I bumped into Shakhrat, a young guy I met the day before. I had helped his little brother and sister carry groceries back from the market. Shakhrat spoke some English, as he studied English literature in university. We talked about life in Uzbekistan–he told me basically every young person wants to leave Uzbekistan because there are no opportunities here (you cannot earn a salary enough to live on). Shakhrat just finished university and was offered a job in Dubai working at a guesthouse. He will start work there in September.Despite the hardships, Shakhrat was full of optimism for life. He was always reciting poems or wise sayings during our conversation (he enjoyed philosophy and reading books).
Shakhrat took me to his university(Bukhara State University) and showed me around the English Department, where I met some teachers and students.
the English department at Bukhara State University. The hallway was lined with quotes, the best one said: “Of sweet I have tasted, and of wealth, but I found no sweet as sweet as health.”
a synagogue in Bukhara. Jews have lived here from th 12th century, but now there are few Jews left. Most have moved to Israel.
At around noon, I finally left Bukhara and headed for Karshi, my next stop 160km away.